Jaws Through The Eyes Of Big Wave Surfer Ian Walsh — Ep 5

0
8

Jaws Through The Eyes Of Big Wave Surfer Ian Walsh

I grew up around the ocean and conveniently the only place that was available to set up camp for the whole family was right down by the beach that was pretty much the turning point in my life.

Every day was just surfing surfing surfing and I can remember just wanting to surf really big waves really well and really small waves really well. The Jaws tow-in happened and I was still really really young kid but I wasn’t really thinking about it too much. As I got a little bit older, I would go down to the cliff on some big days. I would always look at it and be a little confused cuz the days that jaws was really big another wave on the other side of the island is at its like best moment and I would always be over there surfing every swell.

I’d ended up going with my neighbor who towed out at jaws all the time you know you get one of those big waves and you like feel it in the bottom of your stomach and you know I still have those feelings every time I go out.

Jaws started to become more and more appealing to me. After a few years at Jaws it really turned into the circus it still is now with all the people on the cliff the fifty jet skis, the boats, the helicopters buzzing the lineup and filming, and the coastguard comin in and pulling people out of the channel wounded and every time we went out there we were learning something else and something new and you know there’s just endless ground to be figuring out where you’re supposed to be on the wave and how you’re supposed to ride it.

To achieve something that you wanna do you have to take risks and sometimes along the way you get beat up and that’s a big part about surfing out there. Being held down at Jaws is without a doubt one of the most violent places you can be, it’s really really fast, really violent, and really long every time.

Every time it seems like you pop up and surface, you’re gasping for air there’s another gigantic wave right there. You have no idea where the bottom is, the biggest aspect of pushing myself in the ocean is in big waves. Welcome to the Ian Walsh Experience..

As found on Youtube